Purple Coat: Interfacing Dilemma

Vogue instructions for the coat pattern call for non-fusible interfacing. My experience with Vogue patterns is that if a certain type of interfacing is needed, it will be listed on the pattern. The Vogue Badgley Mischka pattern I used to make a wool crepe suit(see photograph above) required nylon fusible knit interfacing and it needed to be fused to all fabric pieces. Marcy Tilton wrote in her Armani Jackets article that the entire jacket front was fused. I was concerned that the coat would not look how it was intended to look if I added fusible interfacing to the front and attached the bias cut strips to hems. I debated for a few days about whether I should fuse the front of the coat. To help me make a decision, I preshrunk short strips of Sof-Shape interfacing and fused them to a scrap piece of fabric.

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Marcy mentioned two methods for preshrinking interfacing; dipping it in hot water and hang to dry, and steaming before fusing. I normally use the steam method, but I wanted to see if there was a noticeable difference if it was dipped. In the photographs to the left, the interfacing marked bias was dipped and dried. When I flipped the scrap fabric over, neither interfacing was discernible in the photograph. DSCN2022 I flexed the scrap fabric around a bit and took a another photograph with the fabric in a no crease fold. I felt that the steamed interfacing was a little too rigid, even though it was a bias cut just as the dipped piece. I decided to use the bias strips for hems and break from my norm. I dipped a bunch of 2 inch bias cut strips and hung them to dry.

I did not make a final decision about fusing the front until after I sewed non-fusible interfacing to middle front fabric pieces. When hanging, the pieces look supported but not formed. I felt that fusing the side pieces would stiffen them too much regardless of the interfacing softness. I decided not to fuse any other interfacing beyond the hem strips.

DSCN2029When I received the interlining fabric I was alarmed at how lofty it was. I thought it would add too much bulk to the coat. To test how bulky it would look, I pinned pieces to the coat interior and put on the coat. The first thing I noticed was how comfortably warm I was. I said to myself, “I am putting this interfacing in this coat even if I have to make 1/8 inch seams.” To my surprise, the quilty-looking interlining did not add bulk. The lofty fiberfill sort of melted against my body. I was able to go cross the center edges beyond the center front lines. Yeh!

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