A spot for a large garbage can.
When I moved to my current place a couple of years ago, I was unable to find an area to put my garbage can. Sadly, I wrapped the can in plastic and stored it in a closet. I bought a smaller can and endured. It took a while, but I was finally able to design a proper cart to accommodate the can. The top of the can opens without obstruction, is close to the sink, and is not a tripping hazard. All essentials are covered.
The cart measures 36 1/4″ in height. The top shelf is 30 7/8″ x 15 3/4″ x 5/8″. Total cost for me was $99 as I made brackets with my 3d printer using leftover filament. I purchased caster socks from eBay for $14; aluminum legs for $58 and wood board for $23 from Lowe’s; and $4.00 for screws from Home Depot. I had casters from a previous project.
- 3/4-in x 16-in x 6-ft Square Unfinished Spruce Pine Fir Board
- 1-in W x 3-ft L Mill Finished Aluminum Square Tube
- caster socks
- 3d printed parts
- sandpaper (220 and 600 grit)
- masking tape
- #6 1-3/4 in. Phillips Round Head Zinc Plated Wood Screw
- #6 1/2″ wood screws
- #6 1″ wood screws
- hack saw
- phillips screwdriver
- 5/32″ drill bit
- wood chisel
I was very pleased with how my wood was cut at Lowe’s. The 6 foot length was cut into 2 – 20 1/4″ pieces and 1- 36 1/4″ piece. After the wood is cut, lay it flat and continue to lay it flat until the varnish is applied. I did not sand the wood before putting on the varnish, but I should have. 220 grit can be used at this stage. “Factory-sanded, ready-to-stain or -paint after a light-finish sanding.”
I applied two coats of varnish to the top and one coat to the underside and edges. 220 grit sandpaper was used between top coats. 600 grit sandpaper was used to finish.
I rounded the corners of the top layer by sanding it with a wood block covered with 220 grit sandpaper.
I cut 98mm off one end of each tube with a hacksaw. The tubes that were delivered to me were scratched, etched, and dirty. I cleaned, then sanded them. 320 grit sandpaper seemed to work the best.
I had to trim the caster socks with a wood chisel and coat them with petrolatum jelly and oil (on occasion) to hammer them into the uncut ends of the tubes. It was not until later that I realized I should have tried sanding the inside of the tube to fit them.
The parts are available in my 3D And Dowel piy (print-it-yourself) shop on CGTrader.com
Place caster socket into uncut end of aluminum tube.
I used a scrap piece of wood to protect the floor while pounding the socks into the tubes.
- Place shelf brackets 3″ from the bottom of the tube and 11 1/2″ from top of tube.
- Secure position with masking tape.
- Drill tube using 5/32″ drill bit. Drill again on opposite side. Repeat for each bracket.
- Insert the cut end of tube into the flange.
- Place masking tape on tube to align with edge of flange (on both sides of tube).
- Mark position 7mm from top of masking tape in center to align with hole (on both sides of tube).
- Drill hole using 5/32″ drill bit.
- Put flange cover on tube.
- Tape flange cover to tube with masking tape, close to shelf bracket.
- Attach tube to flange using 1/2″ m6 screws.
- Repeat for each flange.
- Position the tubes with attached flanges over the top shelf.
- Screw the flanges to the top using 1/2″ M6 screws.
Screw the flange covers onto the flanges.
- Add the M7 adapter to the caster screw and insert it into the caster sock.
- Turn the entire assembly over.
[…] doors would look in my bathroom. I had pieces of 1″ square aluminum tubing remaining from an earlier project and wanted to include them if possible. After viewing the render below. I decided to use the tubes. […]